I’ve camped at this spot in summer and, most recently, in winter. This is the first time I have returned to a place, but the views were so good I just had to go back!

Parking in a well-positioned lay-by, it’s approximately a 4-6 mile walk, depending on how far down the ridgeline you want to go. The hike is a steady uphill. Although I prefer longer treks over the short steep, my calves are going to explode walks.

The first section of this walk heads up through a small tree plantation, then into some open land. Unfortunately, in summer, the place was absolutely swarming with horse flies and midges. Thankfully I didn’t get bitten by a horsefly, but I was constantly batting them away in the sweltering 26-degree heat.

This is partly why I wanted to come back in winter, to avoid being eaten alive. However, the downsides of winter meant that I couldn’t see a damn thing by the time I reached Whin Rigg. Low-lying claggy dampness. Trying to find a spot that will give you the best views while not being able to see the views is challenging, to say the least.

On both occasions, the wind pretty bad. It’s fairly exposed up there, just a long wide ridgeline with not a lot of places to hide. I recommend pitching your tent in its strongest position in relation to the wind. I understand the temptation to point the entrance at the view, but your tent will thank you when the wind picks up.

Summer Camp

Breezy but very warm summers evening. I took my Thermarest Trekker Chair to sit outside my tent in reasonable comfort. The pink gin came out, and there was nothing else to do but watch the sunrise descend behind Middle Fell. You also get a view of the coast by Whitehaven, and on a clear day, you can see the Isle of Man. As the sun set, the sky had a blue/purple haze which hovered around Wast Water. The view up there is stunning. You can see right down the valley to Scafell. Sunrise was equally impressive, and I got some pics before packing up and descending and round 2 of dodging horseflies.

Winter Camp

The set-up was more problematic because of the fog and wind. Struggled to get a flat pitch but didn’t want to keep walking as I knew rain was coming.

Almost a perfectly timed pitch-up, the rain came lashing down, bringing hail and ice. I took refuge in the tent for most of the evening, occasionally opening the entrance when it stopped raining to see if any fog had cleared. Occasionally I got a sneak peek of the view whilst keeping myself warm with a hot water bottle and a glass of rum and coke.

Just before bed, there was a calm stillness in the air. So I went on a short wander to see if I could catch any stars, and I managed to see a lunar halo! These are coloured rings around the moon caused by ice crystals in the atmosphere. Amazing to see!!

The temp was around -3, so it was pretty cold. The wind picked up in the evening, and in the morning, it probably topped over 40mph (despite it not being forecast). The ground was very soft, so it pulled up a few pegs. Trying to get the tent down without it blowing away was a challenging experience. But after being heavily buffeted on the way down, it calmed halfway down. On the bright side, the fog had cleared, and I could see the snow that had fallen on Scafell down the valley.

Conclusion 

Great spot. The ridge is so long/wide that you can still have your own space even if there are other campers out. Just be prepared for wind, and ensure your tent can manage it.